In this step we will be using diluted grimy black paint to simulate oil and grease stains, dirt deposits and to highlight details on your model.
Begin by loading your #2 round paint brush with lots of thinner, then slightly touch the end of the brush into some fresh paint. You only want a little color on the brush, so just a touch of paint at this point please !
If you need more color, you can always add more later. It’s much easier to and darken an area, than to try and lighten it if you get too much paint!! Now lightly touch the end of the brush onto the area where you want the color, or stain to be. The diluted paint should flow into all the low areas and around any details, leaving the top portions of the details with only a slight color change.
If the mixture just sits in one spot, you don’t have enough thinner in your brush and need to add more. If you have too much paint, simply add more thinner and the excess paint should spread out for the desired effect.
This method also works great for wood siding on a box car. Simply touch the brush at the bottom edge of the siding and the diluted paint will actually flow up between the grooves and help to separate each board....try it !
In the photo to the right,illustrate this method and how it works for simulating oil stains on a tank car, and stains from the exhaust stack along with grease and oil spots on my wrecking crane model shown below
If you want oil streaks as shown on the tank car and wrecking crane, Start at the top of the car and lightly, VERY lightly drag the thinner/paint mix down the sides to one small spot where you want the stain to end. Then go back to the top with a full brush again and taper the stain as you go down the side.
You can also use this technique to simulate rust, dirt, and road grime. To simulate rust along rivet lines, like on the side of an old steel box car, use the grimy black wash first and let if flow down the rivet line, after that has THOROUGHLY DRIED, go back over the same area with Floquil rust (or equivalent) ......VERY nice effect !
Step 2.
This step involves the use of pastel chalks to simulate dirt, road grime and the effects weather has on painted surfaces. Sets can be found in any art supply store and depending on the you choose come in a rainbow of colors
If you are using pastels in stick form as they come in sets, a stiffer “scruffy” type brush is a must. You can also grind up a small piece of chalk into a fine powder yourself using the end of an X-Acto knife handle, the chalk is very soft and breaks up very easily. Or you may choose to purchase some of the excellent ready made products on the market today like Bar Mills Weathering Powders
Starting with black, or your darkest color first, rub the end of your brush into the pastel stick and load it with a powder, or simply dab the brush into the powder you previously ground up, or purchased.
Take your brush loaded with chalk and begin working it into, and around any details all over the model. Don’t worry about too much chalk at this point, you will be using the finger method pretty soon to remove most of it anyway. Really work the chalk into the paint making sure you get it down into small areas. Refer to Photo 4. Now lightly blow off any excess chalk and using the end of your finger, thoroughly rub the chalk into the paint. You will begin to notice how the chalk will be wiped away from any high points, and left behind around details, and low spots......This is what you want !
If you are weathering a wood sided car, brush the chalks from side to side the entire length of the car. The chalk will fill in between the boards and really define each board as shown in Photo 5. With the black in place, you can go back over the car with the appropriate color chalk to simulate dirt and rust build up where ever these may be present on your model.
For a faded paint effect, use a color of chalk that is slightly lighter than the color of your model. Work the chalk along the top edge of the sides using small, short strokes, about 1/4 of the way down from the top. Then go back and pull that chalk down with your brush in a few places all the way down to the bottom of the car. Load your brush with a dirt color chalk and work it into the bottom edge of the car, then pull it up the side slightly, making it higher on the ends and below the door. This takes a little practice, but it’s a very nice effect !
Now that you have your model looking like it’s been on the road a few years, it’s time to seal the deal !
Using a clear flat spray (I prefer Floquil flat finish AND plenty of ventilation!!!), lightly spray the entire model to seal the chalk in place. I emphasize LIGHT spray here ! Some of the chalk will fade when you spray on the flat finish, but if you spray the flat finish like paint, it will nearly eliminate all the chalk you just applied to your great looking model.
Keep the spray can about 8-10" away from the model, and let the spray “rain” down on the model.
Step 3.
Okay, now for a little secret.....alright, It’s not such a big secret, but this is the final step that will really set off your model. Dry brushing !! This technique simulates natural sunlight on your models and is a fantastic way to make all those little details, like rivets and bolts, POP right out. Dry brushing is a technique that definitely takes some practice, but once you get the hang of it, the end result will turn a nice model, into a great one!
The right brush is essential here and I prefer a 1/8" brush like the "Scruffy” ", it’s a little stiffer, and has softer bristles that holds paint very well. If you try using a brush that is too soft, your wasting your time...same thing with one that is too stiff. You can use either enamel, or water based paint for this method, both work very well.
Dip only the end of your brush into some white paint, then brush off most of that paint onto a piece of card stock, or paper towel. You want to remove most of the paint from the brush and leave almost a dry residue in the bristles. Then, very lightly, pull the brush over the top edges of your model leaving only a slight white line on the edge. Do the same thing over rivets, bolts, grab irons and any details you want to be seen. If you have too much paint in the brush, you will know right away. You don’t want little blobs of white paint, or steaks. A drier brush is far better than a wet one.
If you get too much white paint in a spot, either wipe it off right away, or simply touch up the paint and try again. It really is easy once you get the hang of it. Also try dry brushing a light colored model with dark grey, or black.
Every model I build is dry brushed to some extent, It really does make a huge difference and you will love the results. Practice this one guys......it’s an awesome effect!!!
Thanks for taking the time to read this series of "Handy Tips". It's the little attention to detail that makes a model come alive.
